Herbage

life would be a sad, boring, flavorless place without fresh herbs.  i absolutely love them, rely on them, am inspired by them, can't get enough of them. i remember the exact moment herbs took hold of my heart and never let go. i was working in a corner shop in tribeca in 1988.  the chef was an incredibly talented young painter turned cook named shelly boris who one day gave me the task of picking and cleaning an entire case of basil.  not so much fun but definitely an a-ha moment for me.  the real love affair began when i was asked to pick and chop a selection of herbs for the herb mayo we made fresh daily for our sandwiches.  as i pulled the beautiful little thyme leaves off the stems, i brought my fingers to my nose and took a deep inhale of the fragrant oil that lingered on my skin.  i did this repeatedly with all the herbs (tarragon, dill, basil, parsley, cilantro, chives) until i had chopped them all and incorporated them into the freshly made mayo.  i ripped off a piece of crusty tom cat bakery baguette, applied a thick layer of the herb mayo, sprinkled with sea salt and took a bite. that was it. i was hooked. in love and forever a slave to fresh herbs.

my grandmother used to say that when she didn't know what to cook she would get a pan of onions sauteing. the smell of the onions would inspire her and within minutes she would know what to do for dinner. for me onions work pretty well but nothing inspires like fresh herbs and right now is the time to go get them! basil becomes pesto for pasta, halibut, tomato salad, corn relish and more! cilantro longs for roasted sweet potatoes with sweet chile sauce and sour cream, rosemary, oregano & mint scream for lamb, chives beg for sour cream and creme fraiche, thyme marries roasted chicken perfectly, tarragon holds hands with scrambled eggs, chicken salad and sauteed radishes, dill runs side by side with egg salad, cucumbers and beets & thai basil, lemon verbena, mint and chives make my coconut milk fish soup sing like Callas.  shall i go on?  oh yes.....

those beautiful lush leaves and flowers lend spark and vibrance to food. versatile and forgiving, herbs lend a hand to breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. they take a starring role as beverages in teas (hot or infused cold), summer coolers, infused vodkas, fermented beverages and digestives. they serve as natural remedies for what ails us, beauty aides to make us glow and lend a healing fragrance in aromatherapy to tweak our moods and put our mind-body connection back in the game.  chamomile calms and soothes, cilantro pulls heavy metals from the body, mint for IBS and digestion in general, rosemary oil to invigorate and repel lice, oil of oregano to kill yeast and bacteria, sage for blood flow and parsley to detox.  in short herbs inspire wellness, health, happiness and flavor throughout!

it would be difficult to declare a favorite herb. i have a few. i used thyme this morning in my breakfast of sauteed onions and chicken liver with fried egg and ruby red kraut. i also used it last night when i sauteed summer squash with garlic scapes.  as i write this i am sipping an iced chamomile tea infused with lemon verbena and mint and dinner tonight will include halibut in basil butter with radishes and tarragon.  there are always at least a half dozen bunches of fresh herbs in my vegetable bin (all wrapped in paper towel individually) as well as a cabinet full of freshly dried herbs (i have a dehydrator so i dry my own and put them up for the winter).  my usual stock includes thyme, basil, cilantro, tarragon, chives, flat leaf parsley, dill, oregano and mint.  

storing fresh herbs is tricky. some say they must be kept in plastic bags with the air sucked out of the bag. i prefer mine in paper towels. it really depends on your fridge and where you put them. basil can go from lush green to black in less than a day. i have put my basil in a glass of water and then put that in the fridge - it keeps well especially if you still have the roots attached.  i like to use basil right away. i also tend to make herb purees in olive oil as soon as i get my fresh herbs home.  i find parsley, mint, cilantro and basil hold the best this way.  pick and quickly wash and dry the herbs. individually process them in your cuisinart adding good extra virgin olive oil and some sea salt.  these will keep in the fridge for a good 3 to 4 weeks.  these purees can then be turned into pestos (all herbs can make a good pesto), gramolata, chimi churri sauce, pastas, soups, stews, salad dressing, marinades, condiments, a spread for sandwiches, a quick spark to hummus, whisked into eggs for frittata and omeletes and even into dough for savory biscuits, breads and scones.  purees can even be frozen and used later.  a time and money saving way to use fresh herbs!

if you don't use fresh herbs in your cooking i strongly suggest you try them and find out why i am gushing.  not only do i think you will get inspired by their flavor and endless creative possibilities, i also think they can be an exciting addition to your home and family lifestyle.  growing an herb garden - even in a small apartment in manhattan is a beautiful way to engage your entire family in the farm to table process and educate them about new and interesting flavor combinations.  in our tiny 400 square foot, not much sunlight apartment here in nyc, my kids know that you can grab a fragrant handful of leaves from a flower pot and turn a plain dish into something that sparkles like pixie dust. as a matter of fact, my daughter and i play a game called name that herb where you have to close your eyes, take a big whiff and you guessed it - name that herb!  we do this at the greenmarket every saturday and i am amazed at her ability to identify herbs by smell.  children are also very savvy when it comes to identifying herbs in food.  ask them at the table if they know what they are tasting. it's a great way to get a good food conversation started at the table.

in my opinion, thyme and rosemary are the hardiest potted herbs. they grow like stink week and will be the gift that keeps on giving if you remember to cut them back and water them.  children love to help at mealtime. asking them to pull herbs for a meal will make them feel very helpful and important.  they will also be more likely to try something new if they had a hand in growing it and making it.  keeping herbs will be a family project that everyone will benefit from. if you have cats, grow catnip too!

before i give you some of my favorite herbalicious recipes i want to turn you on to something.  when you clean and pick your herbs always save the stems (this need not be done on the inside of a double album cover i.e "frampton comes alive").  stems can be used to impart flavor to many dishes. for example, i stuff my stems inside the cavity of a chicken when roasting or use them as a bed to roast meat and fish upon.  stems can be used to flavor braises and sauces just like using a vanilla bean (pods already removed) to flavor cream and custard.  herbs are packed with flavor and it is up to you to get the most out of them. 

last wednesday sylvia and i went to market. i asked her what treasure she wanted to find. she quickly said lemon verbena.  she also said "laura ingalls says that miss beadle the school teacher on little house on the prairie smells like lemon verbena and i want to smell what she smells like."  we found a beautiful bunch of lemon verbena at cheryl rogowski's farm stand and i gave it to sylvia to smell.  "well?" i said. "what does miss beadle smell like?" she replied "ice pops with honey." so we went home and made them. we call them miss beadle pops and we hope you enjoy them when you bring your Family2Table.


RECIPES


radishes with tarragon - clean and quarter radishes. melt good butter in a saute pan. add radishes and saute till brown but not too brown. add sea salt, pepper and fresh whole tarragon leaves. saute for another minute and transfer to a serving bowl. serve hot or warm.


herb roasted tomato sauce - pre heat oven to 425 degrees. empty 2 cans of organic whole tomatoes into a roasting pan. add 6 whole cloves of garlic, 1/4 cup olive oil, 3 TBS balsamic vinegar, sea salt, pepper, 6 stems thyme, 1 long sprig rosemary, 6 stems oregano. put into oven for 1 hour - 1.5 hours or until the liquid has reduced and tomatoes are roasted with color. remove herb sprigs (let whatever leaves fall into the sauce remain). using a hand blender, blend sauce till smooth.  use immediately or cool and hold in fridge. use hot or cold.


lemon and thyme roasted chicken - (4lb.- 4 1/2lb. chicken) preheat oven to 450 degrees. salt and pepper chicken inside and out. fill cavity with large bunch of thyme and 1 whole lemon cut into quarters. place chicken in roasting pan in oven, legs first. after 20 minutes reduce heat to 400. after another 20 minutes reduce heat to 350 and rotate chicken in pan.
after another 20 minutes take chicken out of the oven and let rest for another 20 minutes before portioning. 


coconut milk fish soup - for each quart of fish stock use one can of organic coconut milk. combine coconut milk with fish stock. add julliene carrots, thinly sliced haruki turnips, diced summer squash, freshly shelled english peas, whole cilantro leaves, whole thai basil leaves, chopped lemon verbena leaves. bring to a simmer until vegetables are soft and herbs have permeated the soup. salt and pepper to taste.


watermelon and feta with torn basil - cut watermelon and feta into bite sized pieces and place on on top of the other. garnish with a piece of torn basil and serve.


miss beadle pops - bring a quart of water to a boil.  place a large bunch of lemon verbena into the water and turn off the heat. add 3 TBS raw local spring honey and cover to steep.
strain the herbs when cool. add to ice pop mold and freeze. (optional - add lemon zest from 2 organic lemons for texture).


rosemary roasted new potatoes - preheat oven to 425 degrees. cut potatoes equal size. toss with olive oil and chopped rosemary. sprinkle well with sea salt & pepper.  place into oven for 30 minutes. turn potatoes for color on all sides. roast for another 30 minutes until golden on all sides. 


baked herbed goat cheese & apple - preheat broiler. slice a hearty apple (johnagold, mutsu, winesap) into a 1/4 inch round. add goat cheese and press down to cover. sprinkle with fresh herbs - thyme, dill, chives, taragon, basil - salt & pepper.  drizzle with olive oil and put under broiler until golden. serve with a simple tossed green salad dressed with olive oil, fresh lemon juice, salt & pepper.  (optional - substitute apple with roasted beet or crostini).


basic lentils -  saute onions, 1 crushed clove of garlic carrots and celery till translucent. add herbs - thyme, marjoram, rosemary, parsley, chervil and lavender - add tomato, add 1/2 cup wine and reduce. add 2 quarts of stock (veg, chicken or beef). add lentils (about 2 - 3 cups). bring to a simmer for 1 hour. shut off flame. when cooked, add salt and pepper and let sit in liquid and finish cooking.  cool and hold in glass jars with liquid.

Skin & Bones

when we came home from the park last saturday, the kids were wiped out. it was really hot outside so i gave them sour cherry rocket-shaped ice pops to cool them off while i got dinner on the table.  i had already roasted chicken thighs earlier that day meaning dinner was only a few side dishes and a salad away while my husband and i chatted and listened to music in the kitchen together (heaven). we started putting the food out on the table. the kids had finished their pops and were playing nicely with toys when we noticed that it had gotten very quiet in the living room/tv room/bedroom/family meal room, etc. my husband motioned for me to check out what was happening at the table: our kids were busy devouring the chicken. 

henry goes right for his favorite food, what he calls the "skeel."  that's skin to you and me.  he systematically eats all of the crispy skeel off the chicken and then moves on to the meat. sylvia loves skin too but really concentrates on the bones, getting all of the meat off and even eating the cartilage, marrow and connective tissue.  i love this. from the time they were able to eat solids i put bones from beautifully pastured animals in their hands and encouraged them to gnaw away.  at the ripe old ages of 3 and 6 years they are expert bone handlers and love all things skin and bone related.

some of you might be asking yourselves at this point....why is emily so into skin and bones? why is it so important for her kids to like chomping on this stuff?  skin and bones are economical, nutrient dense, delicious foods that we all need for proper healthy development and growth.  they impart vitamins, minerals and enzymes that are sorely lacking from our diets because unfortunately we have forgotten how vital and energizing they are. as a culinary society we have classified them as "fattening & inconvenient."  instead we have traded natural skin & fat for gluten rich breading and get most of our soups from cans and boxes (which are hardly ever from good clean pastured meat sources).  my other delight with skin and bones is that my family knows how to handle food in its whole state, understands where cuts of meat come from (chickens don't have fingers, remember?) and is not "put off" or grossed out by anything that tastes delicious. we get our hands dirty at the table and that is FUN!

evidence that we have lost the fine art of utilizing skin and bones in our diet is the rise of joint and bone diseases in our country.  we must feed like with like.  in her book Deep Nutrition, Dr. Catherine Shanahan divides the foundation of world cuisine into four pillars citing meat on the bone as number 1.  "when cooking meat, the more everything stays together - fat, bone, marrow, skin other connective tissue - the better." i agree. one of the things we used to say in the professional kitchen is "the flavor is in the fat."  we would say that every time a customer would order a piece of meat or fish (especially chicken) "no oil, no butter, no skin." we would say "NO FLAVOR!"  beside there being no flavor, there were far less nutrients as well as we have discussed before -- fat soluble vitamins need an activator to make them available to the body.  

we have a saturday lunch tradition at my house. we roast a belle rouge chicken from violet hills farms. it is one of the best tasting chickens you'll ever have. when we have finished lunch we put all of the bones in a bag and store in the freezer until we have enough for the stock pot.  even if the kids take a roasted chicken leg or thigh to school for lunch (and my husband to work) they always bring home the bones for the stock pot.  they know that those bones give us soup and broth to sip with our meals (my kids used to sip broth out of their sippy cups as much as they sipped milk). broth not only packs a nutrient dense punch but also aids in healing the gut lining for those who are dealing with "leaky gut" issues - allergies, eczema, etc.  who can honestly say that they don't feel better after a rich pot of homemade chicken soup?

i tend to alternate my stock every week rotating chicken, beef and fish (fish always depends on what racks and heads i can get from my fisherman on wednesdays at the market). most times you can get racks and heads for free if you ask! fish broth with coconut milk, cilantro, red pepper and green onion is a real treat in this house.  the meat that falls off the bone is amazing in fish cakes.  stock in the freezer keeps for a few months (if it lasts that long) and will insure a quick soup when needed or extra flavor to a sauce. adding bone broths to grains and pastas will certainly improve their nutritional and flavor profiles. finish with butter (good healthy fat) and my goodness you have created a thing of beauty! i generally soak my bones in cold filtered water and raw vinegar for an hour before i turn on the flame, skim off the scum and then add aromatics.  I let my beef stock go for 30 hours, my chicken for 20 and my fish from 8 - 12 hours. the house smells divine. my yield is 7 quarts. A quart of good soup is at least $10 and my ingredients are never more than $20 for the lot. That's good math! we never boil we only simmer.  the fat we get off the top of the stock is great for cooking! (we had scrambled pastured eggs cooked in beef tallow just this morning). oh! and by the way, bones are sexy...did you know that? after we remove our bones from the pot my husband and i have a great time searching for marrow, bits of meat, succulent fat and connective tissue to eat together. odd bits of concentrated flavor and love. the joy we get from harvesting these buried nutritional treasures always brings us a little bit closer (wink, wink). 

skin and bones also come into play with fish.  when buying canned salmon and sardines (and i hope you do) please buy the ones with skin and bones intact. the bones are small enough that you don't even realize that you are eating them and the skin provides a flavor and mouth feel that is brilliant.  these extra nutrients (calcium, vitamin c and much more) provide you and your family with the nutrients we all need to flourish.

i could go on about how eating marrow and all of it's yummy rich goodness gives me amazing energy or how lamb chops with their succulent fat make me happier than almost any other food.  i see how my family acts after a good meal of meat on the bone with everything intact and i just want to hug the world for making it so simple and delicious.  why is thanksgiving such a lovely holiday? i say it's the turkey and all it's skin and bones that bring that warm, loving family glow to the table.  "skin and bones" is an expression that conjures a very negative image of a sickly, hungry, unhealthy person and certainly not how we should strive to look. i propose we change that image and think of skin and bones as  delicious, nourishing, healthy traditional foods that we need to reacquaint ourselves with immediately! skin and bones from well raised animals are what i recommend serving to bring your healthy, beautiful Family2Table.

Shelf Life

when I close my eyes i see the contents of my refrigerator.  it is an involuntary response somewhat akin to breathing for me.   i trained myself to do this back in 1988 when i became a food professional and it has stuck with me ever since.  i know you are asking yourself "why on earth would this crazy woman train herself to visually memorize the contents of her refrigerator?!" i will tell you....most walk-in refrigerators in restaurants are located in the basement. there is a lot of running up and down if you don't prepare your station well. knowing EXACTLY where everything is really saves time.  and not just for me. there have been many times when i would know where something was that someone else needed (and they could not find).  mine was a handy skill to have and i was proud to keep my obsessive compulsion razor sharp.  at the end of my shift, after i cleaned my station, washed up, made my prep list & changed my clothes i would memorize my station low boy (fridge) like an architectural map. then i would have a stroll through the walk-in, absorbing it all and committing the location of everything to memory.  


that evening, at home in bed and ready to call it a night, i would close my eyes and go back through the walk-in, talking myself through my prep list for the next day. with my eyes closed, i would mentally place the the ingredient and it's location together with each dish on the menu as i fell asleep. some might call it an unwinding.  the next morning, well rested, confident and content, i woke ready for what was ahead of me in the kitchen that night.  As you can imagine, this is a hard habit to break and one that i am grateful to have hung onto because knowing what is on your shelves and where it is all located is an important step toward what i call a healthy shelf life or some serious pantry pride! 

efficiency and economy in the kitchen, home or professional, is a tremendous asset.  it's all about saving time, saving money and using as few steps to accomplish your goal as possible (economy of motion).  one of the most popular questions people ask me when i teach is how can i shave dollars off the grocery bill without sacrificing quality?  great question. another popular question is how can i prepare nutritious meals when i don't have a lot of time?  my answer to both of those questions involves preparation or what the restaurant industry calls  "prep."  If you know how to prep your station (your home, family fridge and pantry in this case)  a nutritious meal is usually a 20 minute pick up away (not including meats if you are roasting, stewing or braising, etc).  let's apply, shall we?


PROJECT & DO


it all begins with the very satisfying task of laying in a good supply of quality staples and bringing them to a ready state for consumption.  i divide these staples into categories: grocery (dry goods), perishables (seasonal fruit, seasonal veg, dairy, meat, fish) and frozen.  after all of those are in place i (mentally) write a weekly menu and then a prep list.  prep lists are incredibly helpful (a must actually) and can be organized according to "project" and "do" (thank you anita!).  a project is something that you don't necessarily need right away or for the next meal and a do is just that, something that you need to do now for what you are about to eat (may we all be truly thankful). 

for instance, making mayo, ketchup, hummus, salmon jerky, crispy nuts and roasted tomato sauce in my house are all projects.  something i do about once or twice a month that will last for a while and a few meals.  making stock is also a project since there is usually a few quarts in the fridge and back-up in the freezer as well.  a "do" might be julienne carrots, zucchini and cabbage for pad thai. other do's for that dish would be to make an asian vinaigrette.  pick and wash cilantro, basil and mint. soak noodles. these are all jobs that can be done ahead of time. the vinaigrette is something that could potentially last up to 10 days in the fridge and dress a number of meals (soba noodles, cucumber beef salad, salmon lollipops) so making a good size batch is a great idea - a project.  washed herbs like the cilantro, basil and mint can last a few days as well and lend a hand to many tasty dishes (chicken salad, soup, summer rolls, curry, fried rice, etc).  


an example of a project and a do is to roast a whole chicken. not only is that chicken going to be dinner for that night (do) but it will also likely wind up being a few projects like chicken salad for sandwiches the next day, meat for tacos, bones to make stock for a delicious soup and fat for healthy cooking.  that one chicken has gone as far as it could and stretched the dollar value for a beautiful pastured bird raised with love and care by a local farmer.  you can prep grains ahead of time (make sure you soak them first), blanch, chop, roast and steam vegetables, braise meats, make stews, cook pasta, sauces, dips, soups and so much more! 


okay. one more example. you want to have a roasted vegetable side dish with your roast chicken so you do a big tray of beautiful caramelized seasonal veggies for that night.  delicious! the next night it goes in a pasta with lots of chopped parsley and toasted pine nuts, the day after it's a sandwich on baguette with feta cheese and basil oil, or a salad over greens,  a filling for an omelette or quiche and finally you puree the vegetables with pitted olives and anhovies to make a gorgeous tapanade (spread) for crostini or as a sauce, or a base for a soup, or a vinaigrette or a garnish for pizza! YES! good prep goes a long way my friends.

i think you get the idea. (if you don't please email me and i will explain further) prep ahead of time, label the containers, date them and know where they are.  when your pantry and fridge are set up this way you can't loose.  meals come together easily and everything is fresh and ready to go. being organized equals no stress. economy of motion, economy of time and ultimately economy of dollars because everything is being used. no waste. no kidding.  i find the weekend is the best time to whack up the prep in my fridge and my pantry.  then i usually have to fill in with one light day during the week.  all in all it's a lovely meditation that will leave you feeling cool, calm and prepared and what is better than that? 


below is a list of my staples. items i could not live without.  as a matter of fact i sometimes feel a bit shaky until i do lay in a good supply.  my confidence in the kitchen has a lot to do with my love and respect for ingredients as well as my need to have them around me at all times.  i look to them for inspiration but i do not hoard. i take as much as i know i will use and go back to see my beautiful friends the local farmers, growers, sellers and neighborhood merchants who help nourish my family when we need them.  i also use many online resources when ordering in bulk which saves a few fazools and who doesn't love that?! May your pantry pride swell till it has its own parade and your shelf life be a happy life, ready at a moments notice to feed and feed well when you bring your lovely self and Family2Table.


* please assume that the following are all local, organic, wild, pastured and raw (like me). do not in any way feel that you need to run out and have all of these in your home.  over time you will determine what works best for you. 


grocery staples
extra virgin olive oil
extra virgin coconut oil
sesame oil
raw apple cider vinegar
balsamic vinegar
rice wine vinegar
raw unpasteurized soy sauce
celtic sea salt
himalayan sea salt
tellicherry peppercorns
white peppercorns
raw spring honey
orange blossom honey
grade b maple syrup
vital choice canned fish
anchovies
capers
blanched almond flour
coconut flour
sprouted wheat flour
palm sugar
dried fruit (raisins, apricots, turkish figs, mango)
crispy almonds
jasmine rice
gluten free oats
brown rice pasta
soba noodles
french green lentils
navy beans
canned tomatoes
sea vegetables (arame, dulse, kelp, nori)
bee pollen
chia seeds
flax seeds
nutritional yeast
popcorn
coconut flake
mineral water
dried herbs
spices
wine
vanilla extract
vanilla bean
aluminum free baking powder
baking soda
teas
coconut milk


perishables
seasonal fruits (always lemons, limes)
seasonal vegetables (always onions, garlic, shallots, carrots, celery, potatoes)
raw milk
milk kefir
kombucha
yogurt
eggs
cheese
butter
lard
beef tallow
chicken fat (schmaltz)
bacon grease
sour cream
cream cheese
sausage
fresh herbs
fermented vegetables
greens powder
fermented cod liver oil
meat & fish stock
condiments (ketchup, mayo, mustard, relish, salsa)
miso
tahini
curry paste
olives


frozen
vital choice seafood (alaskan sockeye salmon & halibut)
meats (chicken legs & thighs, bones for stock, shanks, hot dogs, stew meat, liver)
berries and bananas for baking and smoothies
sprouted bread

We Love Carrots

orange is my favorite color.  i don't know if that signifies any deep meaning to anyone but orange has always been my favorite color. except of course, when red was my favorite color.  there are some that say that orange foods are healthy for you.  really? why? according to the ny times, "People with high blood levels of alpha-carotene — an antioxidant found in orange fruits and vegetables — live longer and are less likely to die of heart disease and cancer than people who have little or none of it in their bloodstream." really? why? then there are those that say that those foods are rich in vitamin A.  you can almost understand why parents are eagerly buying those annoying packages of organic baby carrots and putting them in lunch boxes all over the world. one of my heroes,  dentist & nutritional anthropologist weston a. price did much research in this area and found that vitamin A is only present in animal foods (egg yolks, fish eggs, animal livers, butter) not orange fruits and vegetables. beta-carotene, yes. vitamin A, no. sorry.  his brilliant research is documented in his equally brilliant and compelling book "Nutrition and Physical Degeneration."  

so what's all the hub-bub about carrots, good eyesight and vitamin A then?  or, better yet, how do we go from beta-carotene to Vitamin A? according to price, beta-carotene can only be converted to vitamin A in the presence of animal fat.  awesome! great news! i love animal fat! i LOVE FLAVOR! flavor is in fat! butter, cream, olive oil, coconut oil, avocado, tallow, bacon grease, lard, etc. go hand in hand with vegetables in order to make them nutrient dense and healthy! perfect!  it makes so much sense, doesn't it?  when we cook vegetables for children (and even for some silly adults), we often get a fight. why? most people forget to season them. yes, i personally do believe that most vegetables are absolutely perfect and delicious on their own, just as they have sprung forth from the sadly mineral depleted earth. but, if you want them to provide all of the vitamins and minerals that they are able to provide to our bodies for optimum health, you need to properly prepare them and that means adding good healthy fat and a pinch of sea salt.  you can eat organic baby carrots all day, every day and never see a drop of vitamin A without the essential co-factor of butter, the fat that makes this FAT SOLUBLE VITAMIN accessible.  so, the next time you steam those carrots (or any vegetable for that matter), remember to put lots of really good quality butter and a generous pinch of celtic sea salt on them. speaking of carrots......


when sylvia was three years old she wrote her very first song on her own and i was so proud. it goes like this:

"we love carrots" (sung to the tune of Frère Jacques or Are You Sleeping?)


we love carrots, we love carrots
everyday, everyday
may i please have a carrot?
yes you may, you're welcome
crunch, crunch, crunch
crunch, crunch, crunch


CARROTS 101
The carrot is a root vegetable that is usually orange in color but purple, red, white, and yellow varieties exist and are available from June through October in NY and the surrounding areas. We eat the taproot of the vegetable although you can eat the greens if you really want to. I find them bitter in a bad way - not like radicchio or endive which are bitter in a good way.  


According to wikipedia, The wild ancestors of the carrot are likely to have come from Iran and Afghanistan, which remains the centre of diversity of D. carota, the wild carrot. Selective breeding over the centuries of a naturally occurring subspecies of the wild carrot, Daucus carotasubsp. sativus, to reduce bitterness, increase sweetness and minimise the woody core, has produced the familiar garden vegetable. In early use, carrots were grown for their aromatic leaves and seeds, not their roots. Some relatives of the carrot are still grown for these, such as parsley, fennel, dill and cumin. The first mention of the root in classical sources is in the 1st century CE. The modern carrot appears to have been introduced to Europe in the 8-10th centuries.


If you would like to geek out i invite you to get your carrot on at the World Carrot Museum (not kidding), a virtual museum whose mission is to educate, inform and amuse visitors through the collection, preservation, interpretation and exhibition of this amazing, edible root vegetable.


KNOW YOUR FARMER

i always liked carrots but this past year something amazing occurred. i discovered 2 farmers at the union square market who grow carrots that are out of this world.  i already mentioned vinny & denise who introduced me to their "cowboy" carrot variety, which are sadly now gone until june which i will always gladly pay $4 per pound for (imagine that).  thankfully, about a month ago i discovered carrots ($1.50 per pound!) grown by john schmid at muddy river farm.  muddy river farm is located in new hampton, ny about 10 miles away from middletown.  known as the "black dirt region" this land used to be an old lake bottom and is famous for it's peat/muck soil which contains over 50% high organic matter and produces delicious, nutrient dense food.  John and his son Jack have been farming their 20 acres for 15 years and bring their not certified organic, but unsprayed food, to union square market on fridays only.  their carrots are being pulled from storage and will last only about another week but will soon be bringing in spinach, arugula, radish, swiss chard and more.  in the winter they grow roots and pumpkins as well as some greens in their high tunnel (unheated green house). 


FAVORITE CARROT RECIPES
I still love my raw carrots, and so do the kids. we love to crunch, crunch, crunch and do it almost every day.  however, sylvia likes to dip her carrots in raw sour cream or a simple guacamole.  henry prefers hummus. the following are my favorite cooked carrot recipes. try them, i think you will really enjoy them. they are quick and fun to make and even better to eat when you bring your beautiful, vitamin and mineral enriched family2table.


roasted carrot mash (a great alternative to mashed potatoes)
1. preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. wash and peel 12 medium carrots.
3. roughly chop carrots into pieces and toss with extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper
4. roast in the oven until golden and cooked through. (shake the pan so they don't burn)
5. slightly cool carrots and put into a food processor. (do this in batches)
6. add 1/4 -1/2 cup heavy cream and pulse. (depending on the consistency you like. i prefer my mash with big chunks of carrot still in it)
7. add 1 TBS raw honey and pulse.
8. adjust seasoning and serve alongside meat, fish or sauteed/wilted greens.


gingered carrots (this is best done ahead of time and stored in the fridge, using when needed. they will hold up to a week)
1. bring a large pot of filtered water, salt and a knob of ginger, sliced into chunks to a boil.
2. wash and peel 12 medium carrots.
3. cut them into (coins) rounds or on the bias (keeping them all the same size).
4. put carrots into water and boil until cooked al dente.
5. drain water and retain ginger with carrots. put in containers and hold in the fridge)
To serve
1. heat a bit of water in a saute pan.
2. add carrots (no ginger this time) till heated
4. when water is almost gone, add 2 TBS butter and coat carrots.
5. salt & pepper (i prefer white pepper on my carrots) to taste and serve.


carrot cardamom soup
1. heat a stock pot and add a generous knob of butter
2. add 1 large onion, diced & 2 large stalks of celery diced, sweat veggies
3. add 6-8 carrots washed and roughly chopped, sweat
4. in another pan, toast 6 cardamom pods, split pods and add seeds to veggies
5. add 1 quart of chicken stock and 1 cup of water. bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes.
6. puree till smooth and serve with a generous dollop of sour cream with fresh chives.




carrot oatmeal cookies

1 cup sprouted flour

1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine grain sea salt
1 cup rolled oats
2/3 cup chopped crispy walnuts
1 cup shredded carrots
1/2 cup real maple syrup, room temperature
1/2 cup unrefined (fragrant) coconut oil, warmed until just melted
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

Preheat oven to 375F degrees and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a large bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and oats. Add the nuts and carrots. In a separate smaller bowl use a whisk to combine the maple syrup, coconut oil, and ginger. Add this to the flour mixture and stir until just combined.

Drop onto prepared baking sheets, one level tablespoonful at a time, leaving about 2 inches between each cookie. Bake 10 - 12 minutes or until the cookies are golden on top and bottom.

carrot salad with tahini dressing
1. grate a bunch of carrots
2. add a cup of raisins
3. add 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
4. add 1/4 up toasted pine nuts
5. toss with extra virgin olive oil and raw apple cider vinegar.
6. salt and pepper to taste.
7. refrigerate (this can last days)


tahini dressing
1. mix 1 TBS raw tahini with water until a paste forms
2. thin it out with fresh lemon juice until you achieve the desired texture
3. salt & pepper to taste
4.  drizzle on top of the carrot salad (which can be mixed with any greens or sliced apple to fill it out it can also be stuffed inside a pita, rolled into a wrap or used as a stuffing for pork chops!)

Packed Lunches for "Picky" Eaters

i took a little trip down to the florida keys all by myself to visit friends and chill my head out.  you need that every once in a while when the cold of a nyc winter has got you in its grip.  it worked.  a few days of sun, relaxation, fresh caught fish, acupuncture and swimming with dolphins did the trick.  now i'm back and looking at things with fresh eyes and a clear head.  invigorated and feeling charged enough to make it through to the spring that is waiting to knock at my door.  while i was a way i received an email from my friend nina asking what i put in my kids packed lunches so i ran off a list and liked what i saw so i thought i would share it and my thoughts with you.  

every year i teach a workshop called "packed lunches for picky eaters."  at least 30 people show up, sometimes more. they confess that they do not feel inspired to make creative lunches or feel lost because their child is picky and wants to eat the same thing every day. you know what i think about that.....picky eaters are not born that way, they are created.  if you are a picky eater, chances are your kids will be too.  if you embrace food with the same gusto and vulnerability you embrace life, then your children will grow to be food fearless and want to try everything. remember, "just one bite to be polite"  because you never know, your new favorite food might be right in front of you.

i pack 3 lunches every day (son, daughter & husband).  usually the same menu because that makes it easier and we can all talk about it later. "what was your favorite part of lunch today?" or "what did you think of the new herb salami i bought?" and "i loved the berries in those pancakes. should we get those berries again?"  I find that this is a great way for the kids to learn to express gratitude.  It just like asking "what was the best part of your day today?" a question i ask every night before the kids go to bed and they answer with joy.  without knowing it, they have just reflected and said thanks for something - an evening prayer if you will. 

back to lunches:  the goal of a packed lunch is to provide nutrient dense meals that will keep blood sugar stable and fresh, beautiful flavors that will keep your eaters content. i rely heavily on leftovers and rarely ask my family what they want.  i usually hit a home run and the lunch bags return empty. but some days i don't hit it right on the head and that's okay.  no matter what, everybody digs in and gives what they have a go.   the following is a list of what i have packed for take away lunch when you just can't have your family2table at home.  the important thing is to bring that family2table feeling, love and nourishment to you and your family wherever you may go.

PACKED LUNCH IDEAS 

1. Any type of antibiotic and hormone free, grass fed meats (my children eat sandwiches but sometimes prefer slices or "rolls" of meat as well as sausage, meatballs, burgers, etc). check out elk trails ranch (Ron) at the union square farmers market on saturdays -  he makes the best buffalo kielbasa! you can cook it or just put the whole sausage cold in the lunch box.  both my kids love it and i carry it wherever we go.  Buy a few packs and keep them in the freezer.  OH! we love duck confit. you can make or buy a leg or two and shred the meat into soups, stews, salads, sandwiches etc.

2. Chunks of good (preferably raw milk) cheeses.  A cheese sandwich on sourdough rye with a thick layer of real butter and a sprinkle of celtic sea salt is delicious and will keep the blood sugar balance for hours.  Skewer the cheese with sausage chunks, cherry tomatoes (or any other cooked veg that skewers well and your child will eat) or fresh fruit. Skewers are available at most kitchen supply stores (a pack of 100 for $1.50).  DONT FORGET TO CUT THE POINT OFF BEFORE PACKING!

3. Nori or Cucumber wrapped vegetable sushi rolls - so fun! they love this. sushi is not that hard to make with practice.  Lacto-fermented vegetables can be made easily at home but are also available from Hawthorne Farms at Union Square Market and Integral Yoga.  They taste great and are a great source of enzymes, Vitamin C and probiotics for good gut health. Roll Chia seeds into the rice for more Omega3s.

4. Sliced Apples or pears with a sprinkle of sprouted granola and raw honey.  green apples are also great sliced very thin on a cheese sandwich with curry mayo. I use a japanese mandolin to get paper think slices for sandwiches. Please be careful and use the finger guard. 

5. room temp. brown rice pasta salads (leftover fish, sausage, chicken, pesto, roasted veggies, tomato, capers, olives, anchovies, etc)  If your child is a pasta fan and that's your go-to dish, then do all you can to make it a bit more nutritious.  Use real bone broth (beef, chicken, fish).

Bone broth has so much value nutritionally. Vitamins, minerals, gelatin for gut healing, etc.  If you roast chicken for dinner save the bones and make broth.   Hawthorne farms has incredible beef soup bones and marrow bones.  Marrow is a super-food children should consume as often as possible.  it is also something we as parents can slip into the food without them even knowing -- in pasta, for instance.  Use lots of butter, broth, raw milk parmagianno cheese.  

Pasta is a great opportunity to use fish eggs as well. Salmon roe, dried bottarga (mullet or tuna roe).  Make pasta a whole pound at a time and store in quart containers in the fridge.

Use ample sea salt in the water when cooking.  You can also cook the pasta in Broth or Miso instead of water for more nutritional value.

6. Lentil salad (any bean or grain salad actually - 1.e cous cous, quinoa- major protein source) - combine with meats, fish, veggies, herbs, olive oil, coconut oil.  PLEASE REMEMBER when preparing grains, beans and pulses to SOAK for 24 hours to disable the phytic acid - which is anti-nutrient and blocks mineral absorption.  When bringing to a boil, skim "scum" off the

top as this are impurities that need to be removed.  With lentils and beans,  DO NOT add salt while cooking.  Salt after you have turned off the pot and let soak with salt while cooling.  you can add aromatics to the pot while cooking (carrot, onion, garlic, herbs etc)

7. Hummus with crackers - Wassa or Rye Vita (i usually give olives and pickles on the side) my kids love to spread and dip. you can also do hummus with blanched crudite.  I blanch with ample celtic sea salt in the blanching water and the ice bath as this imparts more flavor and minerals into the vegetables.  Roasted Vegetables are great crudite for kids as these veggies are very sweet from the carmelized natural sugars of the vegetables from roasting.  If you are making your hummus, soak beans properly first.  Hummus can be made from all beans and pulses.  Black bean with chipotle puree and cilantro, white bean with preserved lemon, garlic and thyme, red lentil with garam masala and dill.  have fun and play with flavors. be bold, try new things and let your children help create new flavors.

8. boiled Eggs with crumbled bacon - Neiman ranch thick cut - and peas. I cannot say enough about EGGS.  I LOVE eggs.  my kids adore eggs all ways.  Please make sure you are getting eggs from a reliable, non-factory farm source. I can recommend Nevia from Bohdi Tree Farm who comes to Abingdon Market on Saturdays and Dave from Muddy Farm who is also at Abingdon Market on Saturdays.  Eggs can be added to pasta or eaten plain and exquisite with sea salt.  Eggs salad with homemade MAYO or Wild Salmon Salad (fresh or tinned) with chopped, boiled eggs on sourdough bread or crackers.

9. Wraps! we use flax bread or sprouted tortillas. we particularly like bacon, tomato, fermented beets and avocado and lamb sandwiches with cucumbers and yogurt.  PLEASE TRY and get away from the packaged single serve Yo Baby style yogurts (way too much sugar) and move on to plain, organic yogurt made from good milk from grass fed cows like Hawthorne Farms Plain and Maple Vanilla yogurt available at Union Square Market.  There are plenty of reusable containers that we can put the yogurt in and put in the lunchbox.

10. use half an Avocado as the cup for another salad and combine (lentils, beans, fish - salmon salad, shrimp salad, tuna - don't get too mayo-gooey though and please use a homemade mayo to impart more nutrition).

11. fried rice - a great way to use leftover rice.  heat a skillet - very hot - add coconut oil, break an egg and scramble. Add leftover, cold rice and cook. add any veggies ( frozen peas are great), leftover meats, fish, herbs (cilantro, basil) add asian vinaigrette (wheat free traditionally brewed Tamari, rice wine vinegar, fresh lime juice, fish sauce and sesame oil).

12. cold soba noodle salad - Soba noodles are delicious and this salad can be prepared days ahead of time. as a matter of fact this dish gets better as it marinates in the fridge.  You can buy soba noodles in packages or in bulk.  Using a julienne peeler, add cucumber and blanched carrots to the cooked noodles. Add cilantro, basil, sesame seeds and leftover chicken, meat or fish.  Use the Asian Vinaigrette from the fried rice above.

This vinaigrette is easy to make and stores well in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

13. chopped chicken LIVER or bison liver or liverwurst on bread - I know what you are thinking....my kid won't eat liver. Most don't like it, that's true. But, if you make it and eat it, odds are at some point they will get into it.  Pate is readily available, delicious and one of the most nutritious foods on the planet.  we should all eat it twice a week.  Just try it. Please. 

14. a cold Roasted Chicken leg is always great (leftovers make great lunches, friends!).  Nothing beats a drumstick with a few sides for lunch.  Thanksgiving Turkey, Meatballs, Meatloaf, Burgers Stew, Soup, etc. Leftovers are a blessing.  Use them liberally!  A thermos keeps them warm all day.

15. Yogurt and Fresh Fruit Salad - Again, please try and stay away from the single serving packaged yogurts.  There are many brands that are properly made and delicious.  Skewer the fruit and encourage the Yogurt as a dip to the fruit kabobs.  Raw honey or maple syrup in the yogurt is a perfect sweet treat!  This is also a great classroom snack.

16. Thai Summer Rolls & dumplings - Shredded Raw veggies (and leftover meats and fish) and herbs in a rice paper wrapper with dipping sauce.

17. Pad Thai & Curries:  Curry can be made days ahead and warmed in the morning. Pad Thai is a great new take on pasta for kids and is easily prepared and packed in the morning.

18. Sourdough bread with real butter and smoked salmon.  Forget the bagel! this is the bomb!

write to me if you need recipes for any of these ideas of if you have an idea you would like to share.

chefemilyduff@gmail.com